It began with rosemary
The chapter opens with a short claim: it began with rosemary, as an experiment, and the experiment worked. Herbs and spices, Heißen says, bring luck. Each drink that follows has a short story or a legend and one or two plants at its centre.
Plants with a character
The Chi takes its name from the Taoist life force and is balanced by fennel, with lavender and chamomile for calm, in a stirred drink of chamomile-infused rum and Antica Formula vermouth. The Poet & The Alchemist combines saffron, cardamom and vanilla with tonka bean and pear. The Szechuan Rosemary uses rum infused with Szechuan pepper, which tastes woody, hot and prickling with a note of anise and lemon, and which can numb the lips and tongue; lemon and the fruity fig syrup are its partners. The Mary Poppins mixes gin with ginger, lime and thyme and a cocktail umbrella, and the 47 Monkeys builds on Monkey 47 Gin with sage, grapefruit syrup and a herbal liqueur.
Some drinks take a classic as the starting point. The Verbena Paloma varies the Paloma, which the author calls Mexico’s most drunk cocktail, ahead of the Margarita, using tequila infused with verbena tea. The Maharajah Mojito keeps the mint and the lime of the Cuban classic, which he places between 1910 and 1920 and links to Hemingway, and adds Darjeeling tea, orgeat and a spiced cola. The Black Tea 1837 Old Fashioned stirs aged rum infused with black tea with muscovado sugar and old-time bitters, adding ice in stages so the drink slowly takes over.
The Mahe puts galangal and lemongrass into a wine drink, the Shiso Girlie uses shochu, cucumber and almond orgeat, and the Nippon No Mori combines a gin made from grapes with green apple, fennel and jasmine tea and a kaffir lime leaf. The Phi Phi Island Smash uses Thai basil and the Japanese milk drink Calpico, the Raspberry Nights combines vanilla shochu with raspberry and passion fruit, and the Yuzu Watermelon is a short drink of yuzu sake, lemon and watermelon syrup.
Techniques that recur
Most of the drinks ask for the same few moves. Press fresh herbs, ginger or spices only lightly in the shaker with a muddler, just enough to release their oils; the author even says to crush cardamom capsules gently so the shell opens. Shake hard on ice, and strain through a fine sieve as well as the shaker’s strainer, the double-strain technique, to keep every particle out of the glass. Finish with a spray of citrus oil from a peel and drop the peel in the glass.
Recipes from this chapter
The fourteen drinks of the herbs chapter are collected on this site as drafts until we have permission to publish them.